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Hi, I'm Michael, friendly Maker Forums administrator. I'm the type who uses the tools to make parts for the other tools, and occasionally to do something useful with them. I'm one of the original Linux developers, and I started the Fedora Project at Red Hat.

I enjoy , , and , and hope that I'm close to finishing my custom-designed laser cutter to add another hobby.

I'm an inactive pilot (PP-Instrument-SEL) at the moment but still love

Another Discourse update. Most of it is updates to Discourse chat that we're not using (at least for now) but it also has a handy image delete button. Particularly useful if you have added lots of images and discover one was the wrong one and it's a pain to locate the right line of markdown!

meta.discourse.org/t/2-9-0-bet

Went to yeggi.com to search for a design to print for my wife. As I looked through the search results, I saw one that looked *strangely familiar.*

Yup.

Yours truly.

thingiverse.com/thing:3005426

Because this will need some highly precise depth boring for the case, probably I should make my lathe tailstock DRO attachment first.

social.makerforums.info/web/@m

Oh, and buy a depth micrometer. Still haven't decided which one to buy. (Don't hate me for wanting one with a digital readout!)

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Lead screws arrived too, and my attention span lasted long enough to try an initial design.

I'm considering making a 1mm lead push-button quill stop. Brass half nut and button, probably a TPU spring (not modeled here), steel body, steel case (two halves, only the bottom half shown here).

I think that I know how to make all the parts. But I have to design the brackets before I know for sure what size I can reasonably make the nut.

Parametrically modeled in

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That wasn't too bad. The T8*1 tap arrived last week. I somehow didn't quite visualize how small 1mm lead would be. Intellectually, I know that this means lands that are less than 0.5mm tall, but I still somehow was surprised when I saw the real object. Silly me.

Of course, this was a bare part, and I get to guess an appropriate hole size. Since I have only one, I'll need to be careful not to damage it.

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One of my kids has just discovered monkey-patching in dynamic languages. "Now I can be evil!"

🤣

Almost (?) all the Discourse user bio spam I see on Maker Forums is specifically for local businesses in Calgary, Alberta, Canada.

Is there a particularly inept SEO firm that specializes in the Calgary market? Searching won't help; all the searches claim to return the *top* SEO firms and I'm curious who is so terrible that they don't realize that Discourse bio links are all rel="nofollow" and thus do not contribute to juice!

Anyway, my "Delete and Block" button is getting worn down.

Top view of latest version and board in KiCad. It's a Returned Energy Dump for switched inductive loads like a servo to protect the power supply and anything connected to it..

I started from Mark Rehorst's iteration of the Gecko Drives RED and changed out most components and almost the entire board by now, but I might not have gotten around to it without his work

I haven't fabbed or tested it in any way.

gitlab.com/mcdanlj/ReturnedEne

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Back into KiCad tonight for the first time in a while, and I'm a bit rusty. Also my first experience with KiCad 6, and some things did in fact change. But most of my difficulties were just not remembering things.

I've thought of machining 14mm drop-in t-nuts to make it easy even when the slots have workholding already. What's the point in having a rotary table if I don't use it? 🤔

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I want to make a work stop for my mill, but not a vice clamp style like Blondihacks made. I'm thinking T-slot mounted.

I can think of lots of designs that would let me move the stop out of the way of the head, or swapping work, and then moving it back to get a repeatable length. Apparently some of these are commercially available, but I'd like something with a 14mm slot fixture built in.

If it works, I'll as usual post FreeCAD files and drawings to the forum. But chances are that will be a few months.

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Measuring the calipers to model the important parts was kind of a quis custodiet ipsos custodes moment. Who measures the measurer? More calipers!

I had a bit of a scare pulling it apart when a part dropped out. I wasn't even sure what it was. When I finally found it, I discovered it was a wiper to keep the track clean.

I'll cut off both inside and outside measuring tips, part of the body connected to one side of the inside tip, the entire depth rod, and the thumbwheel hook fixture.

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The flag sticking up at the top is to use an indicator if I want something more precise than these calipers. The calipers aren't bad, but a dial indicator can be more precise.

Cutting the collar will take hours and many ops; I haven't even tried planning all of them. I can do a lot of it on the rotary table.

I'm not looking forward to removing that massive tailstock from the lathe and putting it on the mill to drill mounting holes for the bracket for the caliper body!

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I don't have DROs on my lathe. Counting turns is a pain even in the lathe's native imperial, let alone metric.

I bought a $30 set of calipers with a large display, and set about designing a way to attach it. It includes modifications to the calipers, a fairly simple bracket, and a ridiculously complex collar to attach to the quill. It would be a lot simpler if I didn't want to attach it at 45° to make it easy to read!

I think this is the third or fourth time a generic search has led me to this particular question and answer on the forum.

Which I asked. About two years ago. 😆

forum.freecadweb.org/viewtopic

The reduced shank on the handle means that it feels a little wobbly, but it works OK, and I can quit leaving a hex wrench floating in a screw and occasionally swinging into the way of the tailstock.

However, I have now ordered an M8x60 version, and plan to shorten it and make a spacer to go under the head, which should be a better experience.

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